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by Tom Demshki
    Crevasse Rescue:    the step by step instructions
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    This describes how a well-equipped rope team of three climbers performs the rescue of an end persons fall into a crevasse. An end person falling is the most likely scenario.
VICTIM YELLS FALLING!
FIRST RESPONSE
1. ROPE TEAM DROPS INTO SELF-ARREST POSITIONS
A. The other members of the victim's rope team immediately drop into self-arrest position.
B. Rope team shouts for help from other climbers in the area. Extra help quickens the rescue. These instructions assume no other help is available.
C. End person and middle person communicate about what happened and the next few steps.
INITIAL ANCHOR INSTALLATION :        ( Fig-1)

2. MIDDLE PERSON ACCEPTS ALL THE VICTIM'S WEIGHT
A. Middle person adjusts to safest and most comfortable arrest position.
B. End person gradually releases self-arrest, transferring victim's load to middle person and maintains readiness to drop back into self-arrest. Holding the victims weight usually is not difficult for the middle person due to rope entrenchment into the side of the crevasse.
C. End person slides harness prusik (from Texas prusik system) to self-belay while carefully approaching middle person. End person also probes route for crevasses with ice axe and is ready to self-arrest should middle person need help.

  3. END PERSON INSTALLS INITIAL ANCHOR
The goal is to transfer the victim's weight from the middle person to the initial anchor so that both the end person and middle person are available to rescue the victim from the crevasse.
A. End person selects a safe spot for the initial anchor in well-consolidated snow next to the rope approximately 15 feet from the lip of the crevasse, conditions permitting.
B. End person drives an ice axe or picket into the snow, angled at least 20 ft away from the victim. An ice axe is preferred over a picket for the initial anchor.
C. End person girth-hitches a single runner to the ice axe. The initial anchor carabiner (locking) is clipped to this runner keeping the gate up and opening towards the anchor. If a picket is used, the runner is clipped into the picket with a locking carabiner.
D. End person attaches a tie-off (hero) loop to the rope with a prusik knot and clips the tie-off loop to the initial anchor carabiner on the runner from ice axe or picket.
E. End person slides prusik knot down rope towards victim to remove slack in the tie-off loop and runner.
Initial anchor is now ready to accept victims weight (Fig-1).

4. MIDDLE PERSON TRANSFERS VICTIM'S WEIGHT TO INITIAL ANCHOR
A. Middle person carefully eases out of self-arrest position, transferring the victim's weight to the initial anchor.
B. While middle person gets up, end person guards initial anchor by standing on the head of the ice axe or picket.(Fig-2) The initial anchor alone is safeguarding three people until the main anchor is constructed. If the initial anchor begins to fail, the end person shouts alarm and both rescuers drop into self-arrest.  The initial anchor is guarded by the middle or end person throughout the entire rescue.
C. Middle person self-prusiks towards the initial anchor.

5. END PERSON BACKS UP PRUSIK KNOT IN INITIAL ANCHOR
A. As soon as middle person creates slack in the rope above the initial anchor, and while constantly guarding the initial anchor, the end person ties a figure-8 on a bight in the rope approximately 2 feet above the prusik knot. The figure-8 can not pass through the prusik knot, providing a temporary back-up (Fig-2)
B. End person clips the rescue pulley carabiner to the initial anchor carabiner with the gate opening up and away from the initial anchor carabiner.
C. End person clips the figure-8 on a bight to the rescue pulley carabiner for a secure back-up (Fig-2).
D. End person self-prusiks towards the middle person.

MAIN ANCHOR CONSTRUCTION

The main anchor must be strong enough to hold the full weight of the victim for long periods of time, with absolute confidence that it will not fail.

6. RESCUERS DETERMINE TYPE AND LOCATION OF MAIN ANCHOR
A. In well consolidated snow, the best anchor is a climbers "deadman" made with a picket or other large, solid object buried as deep as possible. On ice, the best anchor is at least two, well-placed, ice screws. The following steps describe making a deadman anchor.
B. End person clips the main anchor carabiner (locking) to both the tie-off loop and the rescue pulley carabiner in the initial anchor, keeping the gate up and opening towards the main anchor. To this newly attached main anchor carabiner, the end person clips a double runner and stretches it out across
the surface of the snow toward the spot where the main anchor will be located (Fig-3).
C. Middle person determines exact location for main anchor which should be behind and directly in line with the initial anchor by attaching a single runner to a deadman using a girth hitch and/or carabiner and clipping a locking carabiner to the runner keeping the gate up and opening towards the deadman.
Middle person clips locking carabiner from deadman runner to the runner from main anchor carabiner. Both runners must be stretched as tight as possible.
7. MIDDLE PERSON BURIES "DEADMAN" AND COMPLETES MAIN ANCHOR

A. Middle person digs a deep pit in compacted snow at right angles to the rope and digs a right angle slot in the middle of the pit leading from the pit towards the initial anchor.
B. Middle person buries deadman in pit, using stomped snow, and extends runner through right angle slot ensuring the runner is not pulling up on the deadman. Both runners must be stretched as tight as possible; kick the deadman back or retie water knots on runners to tighten runners.
C. Review anchor connections to ensure that BOTH the main anchor runner and the initial anchor runner are clipped to BOTH the tie-off prusik and the rescue pulley carabiner. Make sure that all carabiner gates are up and opening towards the main anchor. Main anchor is now complete (Fig-4).

8. MIDDLE PERSON ATTACHES SELF TO MAIN ANCHOR

A. Middle person girth hitches a double runner to one strand of the main anchor runner and clips the other end of double runner to prusik carabineer.
B. Middle person unclips from rope carabiner and removes all prusiks thus freeing the rope for use in rescue hauling.
C. End person pulls slack created when middle person untied from rope through harness prusik and prusiks to anchor sliding harness prusik along the rope as a self-belay.
D. If the end person is carrying a coil, end person ties a new figure 8 on a bight at the end of the rope with a half of a double fishermen tie-off knot and clips this loop into the rope carabiner. The end person then unclips the original figure 8 from the rope carabiner and unties it and uncoils the rope.

PERFORM RESCUE

There are four rescue methods: Direct Pull, C-Pulley, Z-Pulley, and Canadian Drop-Loop. The end person decides which one to use after reaching the crevasse lip and assessing the situation.

9. END PERSON APPROACHES CREVASSE LIP

A. Rescuers pool gear so that end person has a rescue pulley, tie-off loop, a carabineer, ski pole, and ice axe to take to the crevasse lip. With these, all three rescue methods can be implemented.
B. End person cautiously approaches crevasse lip, sliding harness prusik along rope as self-belay. If enough rope is available, the middleperson can belay the end person to the crevasse lip.
C. End person tries to establish voice contact with victim in crevasse to provide reassurance and to gain information about the victims condition.
D. Middle person performs rope management.

10. END PERSON SELECTS RESCUE METHOD TO EMPLOY

End person evaluates both the victims condition and the condition of the crevasse lip to reach this decision.

A. If there are five or more rescuers and the rope is badly entrenched into the crevasse lip, use the C-Pulley system. There must be enough extra rope to lower a bight to the victim, and the victim must be able to clip into the lowered carabineer and move his/her harness prusik or a rescuer must descend to assist the victim.
B. If the victim is unresponsive or unable to assist, and the rope is not entrenched, use the Z-Pulley.
C. If there are two to four rescuers and the rope is entrenched use the Canadian Drop-Loop system. The victim must be able to clip into the lowered carabineer or a rescuer must descend to assist the victim.
D. If many rescuers are available and the rope will not entrench, use the quick Direct Pull with a safety prusik on the anchor.

11. END PERSON PADS CREVASSE LIP WITH ICE AXE

A. End person places ice axe directly beneath the rope to the victim at right angle to rope and as close as safely possible to the crevasse lip. (Fig-5)
B. End person makes certain that the head (adze) of the ice axe is on the downhill side, with the pick implanted, so that neither the rope to the victim nor another rescue rope will slide off the axe during hauling.
C. End person anchors ice axe with a ski pole or a carabiner deadman to prevent it from falling into crevasse.
12. END PERSON PREPARES HAULING SYSTEM FOR SELECTED RESCUE METHOD

A. Z-Pulley (Fig- 6)

1. Middle person creates a self tending prusik by inserting a bight of rope through a prusik tender, attaching a rescue pulley to the bight of rope, and attaching the pulley to the pulley carabiner keeping the gate up and opening towards the pulley (Fig 6a).

2. End person attaches tie-off loop with a prusik knot to the victim�s rope near crevasse lip.

3. End person then takes a bight of rope in the slack between the harness prusik and the initial anchor (unless the glacier slopes
down to the lip, in which case the end person takes a bight of rope in the slack beyond the harness prusik) and attaches a rescue
pulley and carabiner to this bight of rope. (Fig 6b)

4. End person clips carabiner with rescue pulley to the tie-off loop.

5. Middle person unclips figure 8 on a bight from the rescue pulley carabiner and unties it.
B. C-Pulley (Fig-7)
1. Middle person re-ties the safety figure eight knot and clips it back into the main anchor pulley carabiner (fig-7a)

1. End person takes a bight of rope in the slack beyond harness prusik, attaches a rescue pulley and carabiner to this bight of rope,
and throws the rescue pulley and carabiner over the padded crevasse lip to victim.

2. Victim clips the lowered rescue pulley and carabiner to seat harness or rope carabiner.


C. Canadian Drop-Loop (Figure 8)
1. Begin as with a C-Pulley.

2. A Z-pulley system is then constructed above the C-pulley system by the end person first creating a self-tending prusik by
attaching a prusik on the rope returning from the victim and if there is sufficient rope, clipping it into the rescue pulley carabiner.
If there is not sufficient rope, the end person ties a figure 8 on a bight in the rope segment going to the victim, clips a new rescue
pulley carabineer into the figure 8 and clips the prusik into the carabiner. The end person inserts a bight of the rope above the
prusik through a prusik tender, attaching a rescue pulley to the bight of rope and attaching the rescue pulley to the rescue pulley
carabiner keeping the gate up and opening towards the pulley.

3. End person attaches another prusik to the same section of rope returning from the victim and below the self-tending prusik.

4. In a bight of rope coming out of the rescue pulley and away from the initial anchor, end person attaches another rescue pulley
and attaches the rescue pulley to the prusik knot by clipping a carabiner into the pulley and the prusik knot. (fig-9)




13. TOGETHER, END PERSON AND MIDDLE PERSON HAUL VICTIM FROM CREVASSE

A. End person returns to position near middle person, sliding harness prusik as a self-belay. Once back to the anchor area, end
person optionally clips in with a pack tether to the main anchor in same manner as the middle person.
B. Z-Pulley: Both rescuers haul on end of rope. Note that the prusik knot in tie-off loop at initial anchor is self-tending. The other
tie-off loop that the end person attached to the victims rope near the crevasse lip (the working prusik), will be pulled closer to the
rescuers as they haul. When this working prusik approaches the initial anchor, both rescuers gradually relax their hold on the
rope so the self-tending prusik in the initial anchor holds the victims weight. (The working prusik must not get too close to the
initial anchor or the Z may suddenly collapse, causing all loss of mechanical advantage and necessitating resetting the Z-Pulley.)
While the self-tending prusik is holding the victims weight, the end person slides the working prusik knot along the rope (while
self-belaying), resetting it close to the crevasse lip. End person returns to a position near the middle person and together they
resume hauling until the victim is carefully extracted from the crevasse.
C. C-Pulley or Canadian Drop-Loop: The figure-8 loop clipped to the rescue pulley carabiner in the initial and main anchors
remains in place while rescuers haul.
D. Canadian Drop-Loop: The working prusik must be reset as described for the Z-Pulley (step B above).

NOTES:
RESCUERS:
A. Frequently a combination of methods can be used. For instance, the victim can climb or prusik most of the way out of the crevasse, then a C-Pulley can be used to get the victim over the crevasse lip, often the crux of the rescue.

B. When hauling, rescuers can use extra prusiks as handles on the rope.

C. With any mechanical advantage system, be especially careful as the victim approaches the lip of the crevasse during hauling.
Previously the victim has been hauled straight up, but near the crevasse lip the force of the pull tends to pull the victim in, towards
the crevasse wall, potentially causing serious injuries to the victim. Fatalities have occurred from overzealous hauling.


VICTIM

A. During the accident, yell falling!!!  Spread-eagle your body to try to slow or stop your fall.

B. Secure whatever you are carrying in your hands (e.g., ski poles, ice axe) to the pack tether, remove it from your hands and lower it
between your legs.

C. If you are carrying a rope coil, remove it and lower it between your legs.

D. Remove your ice axe and lower it behind you.

E. Remove your pack from the same side as the pack tether, lower it on the same side as the pack tether, and then place it between
your legs.

F. Optionally attach your chest sling carabiner to the climbing rope.

G. Secure whatever is attached to your boots (e.g., skis, snow shoes, split snowboard) to the pack tether and then remove it.

H. Ensure that the pack tether prusik is NOT crossed over the harness prusik and the foot prusik

I. Attach and secure the Texas foot prusik to your boots.

J. Move your Texas harness prusik up the climbing rope as you standup in the Texas foot prusik.

K. Unclip the figure 8 on a bight from the rope carabiner.

L. Climb or prusik all or part way out if you are able. If climbing the side of the crevasse or being pulled up using a C Pulley,
remember to slide your prusiks up as you go (self-belay).

M. If you are unable to prusik or climb, dress warmly and use your parka hood to keep falling snow out of your clothing.

N. Do not waste energy yelling. Your rope partners are working on rescuing you safely.


EQUIPMENT

Each climber Carries the following equipment

  • Light weight gloves with fingers for tying knots
  • Avalanche Transceiver
  • Shovel
  • Avalanche probe
  • Belay Device (must be one of the following: Black Diamond ATC XP, Trango B52, or Metolius BRD)
  • Pulley (recommended to have 2 pulleys)
  • Picket
  • Seat harness
  • Ice Axe and leash whose length is at least as long or longer than the shaft
  • Chest sling (commercial or tied from about 7.5 feet 1 inch webbing)
  • Ice Axe Carabiner with ice axe leash attached to ice axe
  • Pack Tether Carabiner with pack tether and pack prusik and optional haul loop reinforcement
  • Chest Sling Carabiner with chest harness
  • Rope Carabiner (Auto Locking HMS Carabiner)
  • Prusik Carabiner (Screw Gate Locking) with Texas foot prusik with tether and harness prusik
  • ïInitial Anchor Carabiner (Screw Gate Locking) with a single runner and hero loop
  • Main Anchor Carabiner (Screw Gate Locking) with a double runner
  • Pulley Carabiner with a prusik tender and 2 pulleys
  • Helmet